Andrea Conconi, first of all, would you like to clarify what IVVT is and what its main functions are?
The Ticino Vine and Wine Interprofession brings together all the stakeholders in the canton's winemaking industry. Its task is to coordinate production and processing. IVVT He is also the liaison with the Swiss Interprofession. He oversees several committees. The best-known is undoubtedly Ticinowine, which deals with wine promotion, but there are also committees for grape varieties, the DOC tasting committee, and the pesticide committee. His role is more technical and legislative, and he liaises with cantonal and federal governments and informs producers about legislative changes.
With what spirit are you approaching the office of President and what objectives do you intend to achieve during your mandate?
As always, I will try to bring out my positive and communicative side to maintain the collegiality that has distinguished our sector in recent years. Achieving unanimity in decisions isn't always possible, but achieving the greatest possible consensus is one of our goals. The market suffers from the general uncertainty that affects various sectors; some we can influence by attacking, while others, unfortunately, we will have to live with.
More generally, what are the main challenges you face today in the wine sector in Ticino and Switzerland?
"Certainly the changes in habits, which have led to a sudden decline in consumption, are the ones that most concern the sector and cannot be influenced in the short term. Furthermore, climate change, with rainy springs and hot summers, not only affects consumption but also makes production difficult. We talked about grape varieties earlier, but research into innovations in viticulture is slow, and it takes time to adapt.
Within IVVT, particular attention is paid to preserving the grape varieties that form the basis of Ticino's wine production. What are the current characteristics of the old and new grape varieties?
Merlot undoubtedly reigns supreme and will continue to do so for decades to come. However, for years, winemakers have been trying to diversify production. Particular attention is now being paid to fungal-resistant grape varieties. While there are some interesting white grape varieties, for the red grapes currently being tested, there are still no grapes on the horizon that can replace our Merlot or international varieties. With the ViSo "Sustainable Viticulture" project, we are working on the viticulture of the near future: grape varieties, plant protection products, herbicide elimination, and more.
Heroic vines, courageous winemakers
Despite considerable challenges, Ticino viticulture is changing, thanks primarily to the determination of entrepreneurs determined to assert their vision. Luca Locatelli (Manimatte) and Gabriele Bianchi (Bianchi Farm) share their opinions.
What does working on the heroic terraced vineyards of Bellinzona mean to you? Is it a technical challenge, or also a cultural and identity one? Can you tell us how this challenge arose and what it means to you?
Luke LocatelliFor us, it's first and foremost an act of cultural and identity resistance. These terraces tell the story of centuries of Ticino viticulture, increasingly threatened by generational change. The challenge arose when we acquired the first hectare: we wanted to do something different, to demonstrate that heroic viticulture and sustainability can coexist. Technically, this means forgoing mechanization, working each plant by hand, managing extreme slopes and diverse microclimates. But culturally, it means preserving a heritage: dry stone walls, rural architecture, terraces. The choice of resistant varieties stems from this: to be consistent with the organic philosophy without distorting the land, to innovate while respecting tradition.
How do you cope with the "beautiful work" of cultivating vineyards on the terraces on a daily basis? What have you learned from working in such demanding environments, directly interacting with nature?
Luca Locatelli: "The beautiful work begins at dawn in summer to avoid the scorching heat, and in winter, taking advantage of every ray of sunshine to warm up. Every day is different: cutting the grass with a brush cutter, tying each shoot by hand, harvesting the grapes in crates. But it's a work that leaves you satisfied in the evening, with the knowledge of having interacted with nature. From direct interaction, we learned humility: nature is in no hurry and does not forgive superficiality. Each vineyard has its own characteristics, each resistant variety reacts differently. Resistant varieties have taught us that collaborating with natural genetics reduces stress on the ecosystem. Nature has taught us patience and that diversity is richness. The work becomes beautiful when you not only make wine, but also protect an ecosystem."
How is the introduction of resistant grape varieties changing your approach to winemaking (both in the cellar and in your product line)—and your vision for the future? How is your character reflected in the wines you produce and in your new product offerings? What are your greatest accomplishments?
Luca Locatelli: "Resistant grape varieties have revolutionized everything: in the cellar, we work with healthier grapes, drastically reducing treatments and allowing for authentic spontaneous fermentations. Our portfolio is diversifying with varieties that tell new stories while preserving the character of the terroir. We envision a future where viticulture doesn't fight nature but rather embraces it. Our character is reflected in our wines through bold choices: spontaneous fermentations, minimal intervention, and "a pinch of creativity," as we say. Our new offerings arise from experimentation with varieties like Souvignier Gris, Johanniter, Satin Noir, and many others, even rediscovering nearly forgotten native varieties like Bondola. The greatest satisfaction? Seeing that our wines express exactly who we are: authentic, uncompromising."
How do you integrate organic, biodiversity, and sustainability into your daily farming routine? What drove you to choose (or remain on) this path, and what is the deeper meaning you find in your work in the vineyard and cellar today?
Gabriele BianchiOrganic farming is now an integral part of our business. We've been cultivating and following these principles for over 25 years (since 1998). For us, following the rhythm of nature and its variations has become something of a habit. It requires a lot of sacrifice, observation skills, and, above all, very quick reactions. It's all based on prevention and a constant search for balance. This cultivation method has been giving us great satisfaction, both personally and professionally, for several years now. Perhaps the greatest satisfaction is living and raising my son in this environment, in close contact with nature and the animals on our farm, trying to instill all the values I believe in and have championed for years with my family.
What are the small, important daily gestures that help you respect biodiversity? Was there an event that confirmed your decision?
Gabriele Bianchi: "There's actually no one specific action, but rather a series of small details that we try to take care of or pay attention to every day. From reading the graphs from our weather stations (temperatures and rainfall) to deciding what type of work to do, following fundamental agronomic principles.
One of the greatest satisfactions of recent years has certainly been soil management, which, thanks to various trials and treatments, we are restoring to a truly remarkable state of fertility. The great difficulty is being able to isolate a single operation to understand its effectiveness or otherwise. In such a complex system, it's difficult to say whether that specific work was significantly significant or not, as external factors (climate conditions in particular) significantly influence our daily activities.
Which wine best captures the soul of your company? Imagine offering a glass of your wine to someone new to your company: what would you like them to feel or remember about that moment?
Gabriele Bianchi: "There are two wines that tell a special story. ALMA was the first wine I made with my brother Martino, with whom I manage the company, and is made with resistant varieties, known as PIWI: Johanniter and Solaris. It's a floral, delicate, and persistent wine, perfect for starting a lovely evening or pairing with a first course. It's a wine dedicated to Mom and Dad; Alma in Portuguese (our mother is Brazilian) means soul. They are the source of everything we have today, and we will always be grateful for that."
PIAZ MERLOT, a barrel-aged red wine, is the great challenge that began in 2012, when our family decided to produce an organic Merlot. A challenge that today I can say we have overcome. Thanks to this wine, we have been able to compete with our peers and achieve impressive national and international awards. This has further elevated the quality of our products and the entire company.
It's a sincere, fruity, and complex wine, with good complexity. A pleasant wine that begs for a second glass and which I find very representative of all the commitment and passion we put into everything we do every day."
