Northern Ireland is one of the four nations of the United Kingdom. It occupies the north-eastern part of the island and lives in balance between its ties with London and a strong Irish rootThis dual identity is especially reflected in Belfast, a port city that has changed face in recent years without losing the weight of its history.
Today, Belfast is vibrating with diverse energies. Neighborhoods like the Cathedral, Titanic, and Queen's reveal a city in transformation, while political murals continue to speak of a memory that is still present. The walls, more than decorations, remain narrative tools. In the Cathedral Quarter, street art coexists with music and literature. Local and international artists work here, including Wee Nuls (Nuala), whose work explores themes of identity and stereotypes. Her images fit into a context where urban art is not just aesthetic, but also a statement.
The city can also be discovered through its most everyday places. St. George's Market, built in the late 19th century, fills with stalls, music, and chatter on weekends. It's a vibrant space, frequented more by locals than tourists. In the Titanic Quarter is the museum dedicated to the ocean liner built here. The modern and highly visible building hosts an exhibition that traces its design, voyage, and sinking in 1912.
The Sunflower Pub, tucked between Smithfield and Union Street, is more intimate. The metal gate at the entrance harks back to the Troubles, the Northern Ireland conflict that marked the second half of the twentieth century, when even pubs were exposed. Today, it's a space for music and social gatherings, and here, between a pint and a concert, the city seems to slow down.
The evening continues at Berts, a jazz club that combines live music and French cuisine in a more intimate setting. For the night, we choose the Europa Hotel, a centrally located establishment that still bears the symbolic marks of its recent history: during the conflict, it was one of the buildings most heavily damaged. For over fifty years, it has welcomed heads of state, artists, and international celebrities. Guests have included Bill Clinton, Brad Pitt, Julia Roberts, Bob Dylan, and Victoria Beckham. With its elegant rooms, contemporary bistro, and popular piano bar, the Europa remains a symbol of Belfast hospitality.
Leaving Belfast, the road follows the Causeway Coastal Route. For nearly two hundred kilometers, it winds along the coast, past villages, cliffs, and stretches of open sea.
The first stop is the Gobbins Cliff Path, a suspended trail between walkways and rock faces. Shortly after, Carrick-a-Rede: a rope bridge connecting the mainland to a small island, thirty meters above the water. Along the way, you'll encounter a variety of places: the gardens of Glenarm Castle, Glenariff Forest Park with its woodland trails and waterfalls, and the Cushendun Caves, shaped by wind and sea. In Ballycastle, the harbor sets the pace of the town and connects to nearby Rathlin Island. We spend the night at the Bushmills Inn, a historic 17th-century hotel that retains a simple atmosphere. For dinner, the Tartine Distillers Arms showcases local produce without excess.
The next day, we arrive at the Giant's Causeway, a vast expanse of basalt columns formed millions of years ago. The site is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and remains a striking place, especially for its natural geometry. The journey continues, meeting small producers: distillers, cheesemakers, and farmers. They tell the story of a region that maintains a direct connection with the land and operates at a slower pace.
Benone Beach, awarded the Blue Flag several times, It opens with eleven kilometers of sand. It's a wide space, often windswept, more frequented by locals than by visitors. A recent practice is also spreading along the coast: the sauna overlooking the ocean. Heat alternates with dips in the Atlantic, a simple ritual that blends into the landscape without altering it.
In the evening we arrive in Derry-Londonderry. The city has two names and a complex history. Medieval walls tell the story of centuries of conflict, sieges, migrations, and rebirths. Yet today its face is surprisingly luminous.
The colorful houses, churches, and cobblestone streets convey a different image from the one associated with conflict. In recent years, the city has invested in culture and public spaces, redefining its role. To explore it, we rely on Far and Wild, which organizes bike tours along the Foyle Greenway. The route passes through green spaces, old estates, and stretches of river, offering a slower perspective on the city and its surroundings.
