Can we remember how the Italian Academy of Cuisine was founded?
The Italian Academy of Cuisine was founded on July 29, 1953, at the Hotel Diana in Milan by Orio Vergani, along with a group of distinguished figures from the worlds of culture, industry, and journalism. These included Luigi Bertett (President of the Automobile Club of Italy), Dino Buzzati Traverso (journalist, writer, painter), Cesare Chiodi (President of the Touring Club Italiano), industrialists Edoardo Visconti di Modrone, Giannino Citterio, and Ernesto Donà dalle Rose, publishers Gianni Mazzocchi Bastoni and Arnoldo Mondadori, architect Giò Ponti, and Dino Villani (journalist, advertiser, painter). Also present at the founding were two journalists and writers, Massimo Alberini and Vincenzo Buonassisi. Orio Vergani was, as is well known, a leading figure in the worlds of journalism, literature, and art. A fine writer, playwright, art critic, and attentive and inquisitive reporter, he left a profound mark on Italian journalism. He served as its first President until his death in 1960. The name of the Academy was long debated by the founders, who initially hesitated over "Association" or "Club" but were quickly convinced, also at the suggestion of the brilliant publicist Dino Villani, that "Accademia" would be the right name. Orio Vergani then decided, with great wisdom, that it would not be an Academy of Italian Cuisine, but rather an Italian Academy of Cuisine.
Over time, the spirit of the Academy has transformed, adapting to the needs of contemporary society...
Absolutely. Orio Vergani probably originally had in mind the Club des Cent (Club of One Hundred), an exclusive French association founded in 1912 by Louis Forest, whose members met for lunch every Thursday, usually at Maxim's, and the menu was organized by a different "Brigadier" (our Symposiarch) each time. At the end, the dishes were evaluated, and members even had their own restaurant guide distributed only within their organization. To be admitted, one had to be introduced by two members (as in the Academy) and submitted to a committee for evaluation. As Academy President Piero Pieroni emphasized, Orio Veragni's idea "was too valid and stimulating to remain limited to a group of Milanese friends, so, in a short time... it grew in number, giving rise to many regional delegations. Initially, life unfolded essentially through convivial gatherings in various restaurants... subsequently, a second phase began, focused on culinary culture, which developed through numerous local conferences and the publication of books and restaurant guides... now we are engaged in a new challenge, which sees us move beyond self-referentiality."
In this regard, what are the objectives pursued today by this association of Academics?
If we consider that cuisine is one of the most profound expressions of a country's culture, the fruit of the history and life of its inhabitants, varying from region to region, from city to city, from village to village, it's easy to understand the importance of expressing who we are and our roots through our cuisine. From this perspective, the Academy's work is expressed in multiple ways, promoting countless initiatives, undertaken, coordinated, and encouraged not only internally but also with a view to the general interest: interventions to protect and enhance cultural heritage, organization and management of cultural, artistic, or recreational activities. Equally important is the goal of studying the issues of Italian gastronomy and dining, formulating proposals and opinions at the request of public offices, organizations, associations, and public and private institutions, so that they may be promoted initiatives suitable for promoting better knowledge of the traditional values of Italian cuisineLast but not least, promote and encourage all those initiatives that, aimed at historical research and its dissemination, can contribute to enhancing national cuisine in Italy and abroad. In 2003, the Ministry of Cultural Heritage and Activities recognized the Academy's extensively documented cultural merits, awarding it the title of "Cultural Institution," thus placing it among the largest and most important Italian cultural institutions.
And what about the specific history of the Delegation of Italian Switzerland?
The Academy pursues its goals through the work of its Delegations and Legations, which currently number 225 Delegations and 3 Legations in Italy and 69 Delegations and 21 Legations abroad, with more than 7.500 members. Founded in 1985, the Delegation of Italian-speaking Switzerland is now four decades old. Its history has been marked by constant local roots, engaging with restaurateurs and institutions, and upholding the values of tradition, quality, and conviviality. Over time, the Delegation has been enriched with new Academicians and has supported, at various levels, the promotion of gastronomic culture as an expression of identity. In this valuable endeavor, I cannot help but be grateful for the great work accomplished by my predecessors, Salvatore Maria Fares from 1985 to 1990 and Paolo Grandi from 1991 to 2018. Our entire Delegation extends its gratitude to them.
During the evening the volume was presented 40 years of culinary excellence. What's it all about?
We wanted to celebrate this important anniversary with a collection of images, stories, and testimonials that pay homage to the history of the Delegation and the many restaurateurs we have collaborated with. In this way, we also intend to leave a mark and inspire new generations.
An evening of great celebrations
The Italian-speaking Swiss Delegation of the Italian Academy of Cuisine celebrated its anniversary with a gala evening attended by over seventy guests, including dignitaries, academics, and enthusiasts. The symbolic location of Ristorante Ciani was chosen, and the menu, curated by chefs Dario Ranza and Loris Meot, featured dishes inspired by the region, accompanied by a carefully selected wine list by Uberto Valsangiacomo, an academic and son of Cesare, one of the founders of the Delegation.
Professor Michele Antonio Fino, guest of honor of the evening and lecturer at the University of Gastronomic Sciences of Pollenzo, was introduced by Gabriele Corte, General Manager of Banca del Ceresio, and spoke about his book I don't buy it, Enjoy wine consciously without marketing or trends (Mondadori, 2024), a successful attempt to restore truth to a narrative that is sometimes too "corrupt," attempting to dispel the false myths surrounding wine: "It's not easy to navigate labels, slogans, and invitations, and it's hard to tell whether they're motivated by a desire to share or to sell. It's therefore necessary to debunk and demolish some beliefs about wine that are as erroneous as they are deeply rooted in popular belief, encouraging a (more) critical approach in the reader. If it's true (as it is) that wine is by far the agricultural product with the highest added value, we must always keep our eyes wide open so as not to end up unwitting victims of 'those who just want to tell us stories'."
During the evening, tribute was paid to the deceased Academicians, whose memory continues to inspire the Delegation's work. The participation of Delegates from Milan, Lecco, and Academicians from Lausanne, Imola, and Genoa underscored the spirit of collaboration between the local communities. Special recognition was given to Daniela Grandi, widow of Paolo Grandi, a longtime Delegate from 1991 to 2018 and a key figure in the Delegation's growth. The evening concluded with a call to continue promoting gastronomic culture with passion, innovation, and respect for its roots. The final message was clear: Italian cuisine must remain a symbol of quality, authenticity, and sustainability.
Pictures:
In the photo with the Delegates: (from left) Claudio Bolla (Delegate of Lecco), Emilio Casati (Delegate of Italian Switzerland), Maria Luisa Mandelli (Delegate of Milan Duomo), Dino Betti Van Der Noot (Representative of the Presidential Council and Delegate of Milan), Cristina Ciusa (Delegate of Milan Navigli).
In the photo: (from left) Prof. Michele Fino, Emilio Casati (Delegate of Italian Switzerland), Dino Betti Van Der Noot (Representative of the Presidential Council and Delegate of Milan), Uberto Valsangiacomo (Valsangiacomo).
