From Domenica of the Corriere del Ticino.
In his The name of God is Mercy, Pope Francis explains how "we must never lose the memory of our origins, of the mud from which we were drawn." Although, in a decidedly more profane sense, instead of mud there is chocolate. Specifically, that of the Vaninis, an important family of master chocolatiers and restaurateurs as well as the other half of Mario Mantegazza's lineage.
Perhaps it is precisely this reference to the past that led the important entrepreneur from Lugano to turn his attention, among his many professional activities, to catering with the opening of Meta in 2003. An adventure in the world of haute cuisine studded with prestigious awards from the most important gastronomic guides, from Michelin to Gault Millau and Top50, which recently placed the restaurant of Palazzo Mantegazza in 36th place for the best proposal of Italian cuisine abroad.
The circle closes on the past
Now 12 years later, it is time for Mantegazza to close the circle with its past, returning to where it all began. In Piazza Riforma, in fact, work is in full swing at the Federale restaurant, much more than a simple restyling.
«All this was born out of passion, over the years we have learned the trade and created a solid and competent team – explains Mantegazza to Domenica. – The time has come to continue this journey by bringing not just a simple restaurant but a project that tells our vision of gastronomy and hospitality to the heart of the city, in the same square where I grew up with my grandparents, my uncles and my parents, trying to relive those sensations that I felt as a child and that I would like to share with our guests.»
The gastronomic proposals
A multi-level project, in the true sense of the word. «The new restaurant, named Federale 1855, where the year indicates the first presence of a restaurant in the building, will pay homage to the long gastronomic history of the city, with a respect for tradition but at the same time an eye on innovation. Three different floors with three different gastronomic proposals, in order to offer a 360-degree experience. From quick lunches in the bistro to the starred restaurant, but also pizza, to meet every need.»
Of course, Mantegazza and pizza in the same sentence almost seems like an oxymoron. «But the reality is that for me and my family, Piazza Riforma has always been the living room of Lugano. Not the snobbish one, reserved for a few, but open to all. It is in these places of aggregation that the community comes to life and generates all that social and cultural movement that brings benefits to the entire city.
I still remember when on Sunday mornings we would meet in the square to listen to the Civica Filarmonica, and then have a drink with people we met by chance, without an appointment but knowing that some friends would definitely be there.
Precisely for these reasons, one of the most rewarding things is the teamwork with my loved ones: from my wife who is taking care of the interior design to my niece Evelyn and her partner Marco, who will manage the Federale 1855.»
Like in a team game
A team game that wants to extend well beyond the family circle. "We want to collaborate with other restaurateurs, many of whom are long-time friends," Mantegazza continues. "The idea is to create a synergy, not a competition, because unity makes everyone grow, from the shopkeepers to the merchants. The square must return to being a center of attraction for tourists and for Ticinese."
The theory seems simple, current events tell of a restaurant sector in great difficulty, with a drop in turnover between 20% and 50%.
"The closure of the Gotthard Base Tunnel did not help, with the reopening we immediately saw a recovery. However, it is absolutely necessary to enhance our gastronomic culture, which has nothing to envy of much more renowned regions, focusing on the quality of the offer.
Not only with the attention generated by commendable initiatives such as Sapori Ticino, but also with the support of municipal and cantonal politics: a long-term vision is needed that, in addition to investments, makes the regulations to be followed less rigid, which sometimes create unnecessary complications for restaurateurs.
Perhaps taking inspiration from virtuous examples outside our borders thanks to which the premises are constantly full.»
Seeing people smile
Speaking of the quality of the offer, the Meta was of such a level that it managed to obtain inclusion in the prestigious Michelin guide. In addition to the transfer of the restaurant, the chef has changed, with Arturo Fragnito taking the place of Luca Bellanca: it will not be at all a given to maintain the star.
«In all these years Luca has shown his qualities and has been an important part of our journey, we will always be grateful to him. However, for this new chapter we needed fresh and proactive energy, we are convinced that Arturo is the right person to carry forward our restaurant philosophy.
Even at the cost of having to give up something initially, convinced that we will then be able to reach all the objectives set. The recognitions and awards are certainly nice, but we work to make the customers happy and fill the three floors of the place.»
With the opening scheduled for next September, will Mario Mantegazza's big dream be to see the restaurant full?
«Obviously, it is the ambition of anyone who starts a similar activity. At my age and with the things I have done and experienced, I have inevitably changed perspectives and points of view. I would therefore like to see the people of Ticino smile again.
These last few years have been particularly difficult for everyone and I feel that the joy of living is missing a little, of sharing a moment of serenity. Which I hope they can find at Federale 1855 and throughout the square.»
A legacy to cherish
Is this what Geo Mantegazza, Mario's father who passed away last October 10, would have wanted?
«Certainly. This year, in addition to him, I also lost my uncle and my aunt, almost an entire generation of the family. Who, together with other great figures who recently passed away like Lino Gabbani and Sandra Poggioli, gave so much to our society.
My great fear is that this legacy, their love for the city and the values with which they have always been consistent, will be definitively lost.
We must remember the Lugano of the past to build together the one of the future. Without stopping at our own corner of the world, but remembering that each of our actions has a consequence towards the entire community.
This is why it is worth overcoming provincial egoisms to think big."
