From the Baltic capital to the most remote lands of the south, Estonia reveals itself as a mosaic of histories, landscapes, and cultures that coexist between Nordic modernity and ancestral roots.
The journey to Tallinn, the capital of Estonia, can be made from Milan Malpensa with Finnair and a stopover in Helsinki, just half an hour away. Our itinerary has been designed to discover the authentic soul of this magical nation.
Estonia's history is complex and marked by numerous foreign dominations, including Sweden, Germany, and Russia, before gaining independence in 1918. After being incorporated into the Soviet Union in 1940, Estonia gained full independence in 1991. Since then, the country has embarked on a path of Western integration, joining the European Union and NATO in 2004.
Tallinn is defined as a city suspended between past and future. Strolling through the cobbled streets of medieval center, one of the best preserved in the world, where Gothic towers alternate with minimalist-design cafes, it's like crossing a bridge that connects centuries of history.
We are staying at Nordic Hotel Forum, a modern four-star superior business hotel in the heart of Tallinn, in a central location. Dinner at the restaurant Rataskaevu 16, an iconic place for those seeking authentic flavours in an intimate atmosphere, is a first encounter with the tastes and flavours of this land.
The second day leads north-east, in the National Park of (in the cover photo), just an hour from Tallinn. Here, nature speaks softly: pine forests, silent peat bogs, and waterfalls like Jägala speak to the primordial power of the Estonian landscape.. It was the first national park established in the former Soviet Union, in 1971, and is the largest national park in Estonia and one of the largest in Europe. It has been deliberately maintained in a natural, almost wild state, avoiding any type of invasive maintenance. Various animal species roam freely within it, some of which are very rare and protected, including storks and other migratory birds, moose, deer, wolves, bears, and lynxes.
in this Old Believer villages (Old Believers), a community of ancient Orthodox faith, time seems to have stood still. The colorful scarves, the household icons, and the discreet hospitality reveal a spirituality that has endured the passage of centuries. These villages are located along the western shore of the lake, on a lonely road known as the Onion Route. The Old Believers are descendants of religious exiles who fled Russia after facing persecution in the 1600s. Although the world has changed greatly since then, these communities still maintain customs and traditions dating back hundreds of years. At the Peipsimaa Museum we learned about the importance of the tea ceremony Ivan Chai, an important element of Russian culture, which also involves sipping tea directly from the saucer.
The third stage is Tartu, the oldest Baltic city, home to the first university in Northern Europe and European Capital of Culture 2024. Here the atmosphere changes: literary cafes, murals, and art workshops coexist with the neoclassical grandeur of the University. We stay at the V Spa & Confrerence Hotel, a short walk from the center. The visit to the Estonian National MuseumIt offers a journey through collective memory, through stories of identity and resilience. Opened in 2016, it was designed by DGT Architects and conceived as a platform representing the dawn of a new era for the former Soviet Union. This museum embodies change and evolution, offering a vision of hope and progress for the future.
In the evening, the kitchen of Vilde and Vine It blends art and local flavors, demonstrating how culture can also be savored. Located in an old brick printing house, the restaurant's menu offers a wide selection of dishes, which are grilled on the summer terrace during the summer months.
It is no coincidence that in the prestigious context of the international fair TTG Travel Experience, the GIST – Italian Tourist Press Group – has awarded the Estonian city of Tartu the Travel Food Award 2025 in the category “Best food and wine destination abroad”, for the intertwining of Southern Estonian traditions with a contemporary cuisine that follows the rhythm of nature, supported by a strong community and a sustainable food culture.
Going south-east, almost to the border with Russia, Setomaa It is a land of ancient songs and customs. Here, the Seto culture, recognized by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage, still lives on in the voices of women singing leelo songs, in traditional embroidery, and in the dishes shared on farms. Today, the Estonian part of Setomaa is a rural municipality in Võru County, while the ancient historical capital, Petseri, is located in Russia. The experience at Värska Farm Museum offers a comprehensive overview of life on a wealthy Seto fortified farm in the 20s. Here, visitors discover Seto culture, architecture, and traditions. The extensive building complex includes a smoke sauna, a residential building, a granary, a dining hall and clothing store, an animal stable, a hayloft, a men's workshop, a threshing floor, a smithy, and a pottery factory. In short, visitors gain a sense of what life was like in this setting.
At the farm Toomemäe, Sirje Kruusamäe and her family welcome us to the village of Saabolda. Their restaurant Maagõkõnõ (poppy in Estonian) reveals a world where time is marked by the rhythm of the seasons and memory, and is the fruit of Sirje's long-held dream. When the family purchased the farm, a poppy field surrounded it, while now, poppies decorate the walls of the restaurant. The restaurant serves gourmet local specialties, and signature dishes include pike cutlets, warm ricotta, and homemade ice cream, as well as delicious cakes.
Estonia is a land of forests and silence, of ancient rites and cutting-edge technologies. Over 50% of the territory is covered by forests; the rest is a succession of lakes, peat bogs, and rugged coastlines tinged with red, purple, and gold at sunset. With just 1,3 million inhabitants, the country is among the most digitalized in the world: a model of innovation that coexists harmoniously with the slow pace of rural life. Wood and glass, folklore and design, spirituality and cyberspace: everything blends in a subtle and fascinating balance.
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