Chefs and Restaurants

Locanda Barbarossa: when authenticity triumphs on the plate

12 July 2023

Curated by James Newlin

The Locanda Barbarossa of the Hotel Castello del Sole in Ascona boasts a loyal clientele who increasingly appreciates its regional cuisine.

One of the most beautiful hotels in Ticino where you can breathe an authentically elegant atmosphere free from snobbery is the Hotel Castello del Sole in Ascona. Its luxuriant park that reaches the lake, where customers in the summer can have a sweet or savory "snack" with some fresh produce and sip a drink; the large SPA & Beauty which offers thermal and wellness delights for a pleasant regeneration, relaxation and recharge; the stupendous rooms in which luxury and comfort pamper the rest of the guest; the cuisine, which of the authenticity, naturalness and high quality of the products and preparations has set its mission to satisfy every gastronomic desire, represent the main reasons for pride of the beautiful structure.

As always, we take care of this last flagship which is the kitchen. The undisputed reign for several years now of chef Mattias Roock is the Locanda Barbarossa of the Hotel Castello del Sole, one Michelin star and 18 Gault & Millau points. Mattias has always loved cooking, thanks also to his family who ran a renowned restaurant in Northern Germany. After the crucial apprenticeship in a 5-star hotel in Hamburg and numerous and important work experiences in prestigious establishments from the Middle East to Asia, the United States, as well as in London at chef Gordon Ramsey's "Claridge" restaurant, in 2017 he landed in Ascona at the Hotel Castello del Sole where he holds the position of executive chef. Mattias says of his cuisine: «Our clientele has changed over the years and increasingly appreciates the regional cuisine of Ticino, which I define as refined and from the heart».

For his creations he is lucky enough to be able to use a lot of raw materials produced "at home", i.e. at the Terreni alla Maggia farm which belongs to the same property as the hotel: from fruit to early vegetables, cereals, rice , to fine wines and distillates, in short, a condition of great advantage for a cook. The unforgettable experience of a dinner at the Locanda Barbarossa begins with a courteous and friendly welcome from the long-time chef de rang Luigi Zagaria who accompanies us to the table; then the experience continues with the arrival of the maître Massimiliano Pusceddu who with elegant professionalism illustrates the proposals of the rich menu with the various courses accompanied by the most suitable wine that Massimiliano draws from a well-stocked list, which includes above all the fine wines produced by the home company.

The fireworks started with a masterful marinated Mackerel, vinaigrette with sour cream and dill, cucumber, ginger and a sablé with spicy mayonnaise and amaranth seeds. The sensitivity of the chef, as well as through the excellent taste of the dish, is perceived by the plating which often, as in this case, can easily be defined as art. The risotto that followed, cooked with the "Loto" rice that is produced on the farm, became a "must" for the chef: creamy, perfectly cooked, this time with asparagus, spring herbs and peas.

The surprise was the main dish, namely the Verzasca Valley black goat, spring onions, white Merlot, polenta; of a touching tenderness and flavour. At the end of the menu there was a certain dessert, but we, mindful of a previous sweet experience, immediately bet on a true triumph of the Locanda's pastry: the "Soufflé", Grand Marnier, berries, Bourbon vanilla ice cream. This wonder was absolutely complimented by the material executor, the very young chef pâtissière Raissa Lafranchi.

The wines served with a winning combination were those of Terreni alla Maggia: from Kerner 2022 to Castello del Sole 2028 to Querceto 2016, while with the "Soufflé" the maître spoiled us with Tokaj Oremus Aszu 5 Puttonyos, a true Hungarian rosolio.

The evening ended in the refined Bar Bassa Selim, where between one melody and another by the pianist, the chef Barman Maurizio Zullo let us taste the Digestivo Monte Verità, a truly special liqueur that contains extracts of green tea and precious medicinal plants harmonized with best Malaga wine.