A culinary adventure that began in 2023, when, after a careful, largely conservative renovation, the Hotel Grace La Margna reopened in St. Moritz. The hotel retained its Art Nouveau character in its historic wing, harmoniously integrating it with the most modern comforts.
Thus, the cuisine, while rooted in the solid foundations of the great Franco-Italian tradition, has been refined to reflect the evolving tastes and expectations of a modern clientele. This means: lighter preparations; new cooking techniques; and a keen focus on the quality of the ingredients, their seasonality and regionality.
Responsibility for all this has been entrusted to two young men with enviable experience and, above all, passion: Andrea Bonini, executive chef, and Gabriele Lovo, sous-chef, who pamper guests with a culinary concept that leans toward a broad Mediterranean approach.
The gastronomic offer is realized in its fullness at gourmet restaurant The View, where the concept just expressed took shape and where the experience was thoroughly gratifying, starting with some inviting amuse-bouche, including a chanterelle vol-au-vent with Engadine cheese mousse, which elegantly whetted the appetite. Next up was the tomato risotto, a simple dish (so to speak) with a colorful and fun design, where the form is complemented by a bold flavor. Then came a dish that has become a signature of the chef's and is rightly praised: the Galician-style octopus, obviously revisited from the Galician original, with potato mousse and enriched with the herbaceous, spicy, and slightly smoky notes of the crusco pepper.
The epitome of lightness, evident upon digestion, was awarded with honors to the Umbrina all'acquapazza (crazy-water croaker), served with zucchini, tomato, and mussels, whose tender flesh almost smelt like a fresh sea breeze. Next time, we'll sample other iconic dishes from this forward-thinking cuisine, such as the carrot tartare or the Milanese-style veal cutlet. We'll also give ample space to the desserts, of which we sampled a small portion with a textbook tiramisu, freshly prepared, a testament to the skill of pastry chef Ernst Gmür.
For the food and wine pairing, the dynamic and highly knowledgeable sommelier Benjamin Zimmerling was able to extract the best of oenology from a large volume—in our case, we stayed between Switzerland and Italy—with a result in which both the characteristics of the food and the characteristics of the wine enhanced each other.
You want to discover a little bit of everything about a hotel, especially a new one—in our case, everything related to the pleasures of dining. So, we couldn't help but wander into the beautiful marble, velvet, and brass-furnished room of the Lounge Bar named N/5, where you can admire the ever-stunning Engadine landscape while enjoying small culinary delicacies aperitif-style.
In this beating heart of the Hotel Grace La Margna, Mirko Giumelli, bar manager, and Alberto Vailati, bartender and mixologist, play the role of hosts with refined professionalism. It's very easy to approach them and discover your favorite cocktail, especially at that precise moment of the day.
Another gem is the “Beefbar,” which serves the finest cuts of meat from around the world alongside creative street food classics like Angus tacos and Mediterranean Wagyu kebabs.
Additionally, for convivial evenings, guests can head to the Stüvetta Moritz, furnished in the style of an elegant chalet, where they can enjoy cheese fondue, meat fondue with its accompanying sauces, or, by reservation, the new fish fondue, also with a variety of homemade sauces. These fondues are naturally served with a variety of side dishes. Stüvetta Moritz also offers other traditional Swiss dishes, such as Zurich-style veal mince, rösti à la Grace, and venison carpaccio.
Hotel Grace La Margna
Via Serlas 5
7500 St Moritz
Tel. + 41 (0) 81 832 22 10
https://www.gracehotels.com
