Thanks to the restaurants FEDERAL 1855 e GOALA new atmosphere is in the air in the center of Lugano. A building that is a symbol of the city, an unmistakable image with its three arches opening onto the porticoes, its decorations, and the sign that, still in its original form, stands out on the façade, is reopening its doors after long and demanding renovations. It is the historic Caffè Federale, likely dating back to the first two decades of the 19th century, or at least around 1840. One certain date makes it the oldest and most traditional café sign in the square: 1855, as is proudly displayed today in the logo of the new FEDERALE 1855 restaurant.
Over its 130-year history, which coincided with its reopening, the restaurant has undergone several changes in ownership, renovations, and management, as well as changes in its kitchen. However, it has always retained the prerogative and advantage of its extraordinary location, right in the heart of the city's most central square. A quintessential heart of Lugano's history and culture, a place where symbols, traditions, and customs coexist harmoniously daily and where community life flows, where people meet, gather, and share conviviality and sociability.
The current comprehensive renovation and redevelopment project was undertaken in the belief that safeguarding a historic building as best as possible is important, as it is part of the ongoing development that has shaped history since its origins, building upon the previous era, in a continuous evolutionary process.
"The project," explains architect Stefano Tibiletti, "was driven by the desire to breathe new life into an iconic Lugano location, preserving its legacy while introducing contemporary restaurant-related functions. The key criteria focused on a balance between conservation and transformation: on the one hand, respect for the traces of the past, and on the other, the need to update the building to current functional and technological standards. The result was a project that highlighted the historical layers of the Caffè Federale, transforming it into a vibrant and central location for the city once again."
The building houses two restaurants, both of which, despite their distinct spaces, stand out for their style and sophistication, as well as for their custom-designed, high-end furnishings. FEDERALE 1855, with outdoor seating on the ground and first floors, is inspired by an elegant yet practical and functional design, capable of meeting the needs of a diverse clientele and the demands of practical, contemporary cuisine. The interior dining rooms of META, on the second floor, are furnished to create a warm and familiar atmosphere reminiscent of a typical Lugano living room, generating a sense of welcoming well-being that encourages intimate and private conviviality.
At the helm of the entire culinary project for Federale 1855 and META is Chef Arturo Fragnito, whose cuisine is rooted in the principles of Mediterranean cuisine, focusing exclusively on fresh, authentic ingredients and maintaining simplicity in cooking and preparation. This approach is further enhanced by influences from his stays abroad, where the chef has had the opportunity to experience the best of international gastronomy.
"FEDERALE 1855," Arturo Fragnito tells us, "offers a simple and authentic menu, designed to be welcoming and accessible to all. The menu focuses on Mediterranean tradition, with dishes that evoke home and seasonality, not to mention a few local dishes. Completing the offerings is the pizzeria, with light dough and quality ingredients. As for META's new philosophy, it's not a revolution but a maturation. A shared vision that has taken root and now looks far ahead. I wanted to build the Tasting Menu around two pillars: the journey and the origins. The journey tells the story of my personal and professional journey, the places and people who have influenced me. Our origins are our anchor: the connection to the land, to tradition, to what has shaped us. My desire is for those who sit at the table to hear this story and find, in every dish, a fragment of the journey and of memory.
Mario Mantegazza, of course, conceived, supported, and directed this comprehensive restaurant project, thus culminating a journey begun in 2009 when he began catering primarily to the building's residents and guests in the shopping hall. "Over the past 16 years," says Mario Mantegazza, "we've had a wonderful adventure, during which our restaurant project has gradually taken shape. We've succeeded in creating healthy and authentic cuisine that reflects contemporary taste trends, open to influences from international culinary experiences. This effort has been recognized and rewarded by leading restaurant guides such as Gault&Millau and 50 Top Italy, culminating in the Michelin Star, the culmination of a journey of constant improvement strongly desired and pursued by the entire team. Now, META's new, modern, functional, and fully equipped spaces allow us to set ourselves increasingly ambitious goals."
To manage the new restaurants, the MarMant group has been established. Under the "m" symbol, representing all restaurant businesses, it will take over the legacy of META and will oversee the various financial, management, and operational aspects of the Bistrot di Palazzo Mantegazza, FEDERALE 1855, and the META restaurant in Piazza della Riforma. Leading this venture will be young and dynamic: Evelyn Mantegazza will serve as manager, Chiara Mantegazza will oversee all marketing and communications activities, and Marco Rossi will serve as director.
Looking to the future and the growth prospects of Lugano's restaurant scene, Mario Mantegazza has no doubts: "With the opening of FEDERALE 1855 and the META restaurant, I'm convinced I can contribute to the growth of a new culture of hospitality, towards a more fulfilling way of experiencing the city's spaces, looking to innovation and the future, but without ever forgetting our traditions and values. The goal is for it to be increasingly lively, experienced by Lugano residents and guests from around the world, valued and respected as it deserves for its long history. In an increasingly lively and welcoming Piazza della Riforma, we want to give our fellow citizens and tourists a taste for the beauty of small things that actually hold such immense value. I'm certain that the people of Lugano will not fail to support those who, working in the public and private sectors, have the courage and passion to realize this great dream."
The star continues to shine
The 2026 edition of the prestigious Michelin Guide has confirmed the META restaurant's star, strengthening Ticino's place on the map of Swiss haute cuisine.
The changes that have taken place over the last year, with the change of chef and the move to the heart of Piazza Riforma, have not changed the assessment of the Michelin food judges, who have decided to confirm the coveted recognition.
The choice came from Lausanne, where the Michelin Guide Switzerland 2026 was presented at the EHL Hospitality Business School. An event that recognized META's desire to evolve without losing its identity. The new team, led by Chef Arturo Fragnito, has successfully led the project into a new phase, preserving the spirit of research and the levels of quality achieved over the previous years.
In a canton that has long been known for its high concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants, this confirms a vision. It's a sign that the region can grow while maintaining its authenticity, with a cuisine that embraces innovation without losing its connection to its roots.
"We welcomed this news with great satisfaction," says Chef Arturo Fragnito, "knowing that the path we've taken, though still long and not without obstacles, is the right one. Over the past few months, we've worked hard to create and optimally integrate our kitchen team, and what I immediately asked of all the staff was courage, simplicity, and confidence in their own abilities, but also a strong desire to help and support one another. Now this team spirit has received further significant encouragement, and, if anything, we're even more motivated to continue on our journey between tradition and experimentation, where a passion for cooking blends the creativity, restraint, and precision that the Michelin Guide has recognized in us."
FEDERALE 1855 and META Restaurant Open in Piazza della Riforma
