As in the name which does not establish the origin with absolute certainty, in Martin Dalsass the soul of his Tyrolean origins (his hometown of Nova Ponente, Bolzano) and the Italian spirit coexist. It therefore does not appear to be a coincidence that his career as a chef was consecrated on neutral ground, in the Canton of Ticino, where Nordic habits and customs blend with the language of the Bel Paese. «After the certificate obtained at the Laurin in Bolzano, followed by some brief experiences as a child in cooking in South Tyrolean restaurants, I realized that to grow professionally I would have to go where the profession of chef was most considered, where there was rigor and organization, characteristics typical of large hotels. In order not to miss my beloved mountains, I chose to stay in the heart of the Alps. In Gstaad they were wonderful years, of training but also of carefreeness, combining my passions: I worked and played tennis, I worked and skied, I worked and I went to climb."
With the aim of opening a personally run restaurant. «On the threshold of thirty I felt mature and ready to start my own business. After viewing some places, I come across the announcement from the managers of the Grotto del Renzo, as it was called at the time, in Sorengo on the heights of Lugano. I watch it, I like it. However, the owners were actually looking for a director before a buyer. I accept with the promise of transforming it into Santabbondio and with the commitment on both sides to quickly achieve a transfer of ownership. And so it happens: after a year the management becomes totally mine as chef-owner".
Even the food critics soon recognized and rewarded Dalsass's cuisine, placing him on the top step of the Canton Ticino catering podium with the Michelin star that arrived immediately, with the 1986 edition, and with the 18 points awarded by Gault & Millau. Inspectors and customers are unanimous and agree in their appreciation of that straightforward, genuine but at the same time refined cuisine, based on the careful selection of raw materials (mostly Italian) elaborated in dishes that enhance their essence, enhancing the taste through express cooking with extensive use of extra virgin olive oil (it goes without saying, this too is selected in the various suitable territories of the boot).
A use so scrupulous and wise that it has led some to rename him "the pope of olive oil", a definition that has outlined his identity and marked his career. «After all, mine is a simple cuisine that draws inspiration in particular from the Mediterranean gastronomic culture. At the center I place the raw material, the product, from the most popular and widespread to the most sought after, from onion to lobster, paying the same attention in the selection of both.
The manufacturing processes and preparations in the kitchen are carried out with the primary objective of bringing out, possibly enhancing it, the original taste of the ingredients. Never too many, the essential, worked fresh entirely and with delicacy and precision. The cuisine is made on the spot and where possible using the whole piece, to be portioned when serving. This is what I have always done and will continue to do: I certainly don't disdain the development of technology but only if it is aimed at improving performance, not if it is functional to convenience to the detriment of the final result in terms of consistency and taste. To put it in practical terms, I don't like the direction that the gourmet cuisine of young chefs is taking who prepare everything beforehand and then use more tools that regenerate rather than pans that cook. It's comfortable, yes, but it's also all homologated, perhaps upwards but indistinct. And I don't even agree with the choice to lead and sometimes force customers towards the tasting menu made up of many small tastings. Thus we end up obtaining the opposite effect to the pleasure of the table, also losing sight of the key principles of catering."
Principles that critics and customers appreciated and rewarded even when Martin Dalsass chose to raise his tone and altitude by moving to St Moritz, in the Champfèr area, under the historic banner of Sometimes, supported as always by his wife Lorena, the perfect hostess, and his son Andrea, also a passionate and competent sommelier. It happened in 2011 and everything went as smoothly as the oil so loved by the chef.
His arrival on the Grisons restaurant scene brought, together with a breath of fresh air, also the desire to emulate his exploits: it is no coincidence that since then many establishments, even among the historic ones, have "rejuvenated" by equipping themselves with gourmet restaurants entrusted to chefs trendy interpreters of contemporary cuisine styles, in some ways similar to that of Talvo by Martin Dalsass.
Over the years, the reputation has grown, becoming a point of reference also for out-of-home service, offered with the same philosophy. Soon this will become the exclusive activity of the chef (now his second wife, Barbara, alongside him). Martin Dalsass has in fact decided to leave his daily commitment at Talvo. Once the next summer season is over, Kevin Fernandez, a Spanish chef who grew up at his school and has been with him since his move to Champfèr, will take over his management.
«Initially shared management was envisaged for a certain period of time. But the team that will replace me is already well tested and does not intend to change Talvo's cooking vocation and more generally the restaurant style. So once the decision had been made there was no need to act as a nanny to the new management. Naturally, everything was also agreed with the historic owners of the property who have always shown themselves to be close and helpful."
He will have more time to dedicate to his passions, skiing, mountain walking (even well beyond the Engadine: Dalsass has also been to the Himalayas several times), but he isn't thinking about retiring at all. «I will personally deal with eating out in its various facets, from the catering service for events to that of a home chef. I will do this while still being able to count on the logistics of Talvo which I have developed specifically over the years to be able to independently support internal and external activities. But I will sign the catering myself, without any further reference to previous activities". In many years of an honored career, Martin Dalsass has certainly earned esteem and respect from customers, critics and colleagues. His signature was, is, and will be a guarantee.
